Right on cue, a juvenile leaps over to join in the feast and, to our delight, a family of three or four more monkeys swing into view, frolicking among the foliage. I fumble with my camera for a few moments before putting it away, preferring instead to savour this carefree moment.
Certainly, it is a treat to even catch a glimpse of this notoriously shy yet photogenic species, which can only be found in central Laos and Vietnam. Even better, we did not have to endure a long and sweaty trek deep into the jungle. Instead, we just hopped into an open-top safari-style buggy at the InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort, led by zoologist Anthony Barker, the resort’s environmental and communications manager, driving only to the edge of the property.Why Italy invented the aperitif – a pre-dinner drink with a difference
I had travelled to the five-star resort in search of an escape from the concrete jungle and this monkey sighting was just the beginning. Terraced into a hillside, with rainforest all around and the East Vietnam Sea lapping at its foot, the 10-year-old resort was built to minimise its ecological impact, using local vernacular architecture accessorised with whimsical fixtures and fittings.
I certainly get my fair share of jungle life, especially with another species of monkey – the cheeky macaques – roaming happily in search of treats. (Barker urges us to refrain from feeding the wildlife any food, including bananas, as they may become overly reliant on human intervention and lose their foraging skills.)
This resort is widely regarded as the breakout project of architect and landscape designer Bill Bensley, and he recently returned to oversee a series of refurbishments to mark its 10th year.
These include a new spa, an indoor/outdoor fitness centre and a gallery featuring his artwork, the proceeds of which are donated to various causes, including wildlife conservation in Southeast Asia. “My goal is to be a steward to the creatures who live here, and particularly to champion the endangered species of Vietnam,” says Bensley.
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And if being cocooned in these lush environs is still not quite enough to soothe a harried mind, the resort is equipped with a few tricks to facilitate inner peace. A highlight is its new spa – the Mi Sol – which comprises eight individual spa villas positioned by a tranquil natural lagoon to nurture a sense of solitude.
Principles of sound healing are incorporated into its treatments through the use of vibrating forks. My initial scepticism at the efficacy of listening to hums as a relaxation technique dissipates – along with the tension in my jawline and temples – when the therapist positions a vibrating fork at specific pressure points on my body, including the heart and wrist pulse point. I even doze off as my sore neck and shoulder muscles are kneaded into submission.My goal is to be a steward to the creatures who live here, and particularly to champion the endangered species of Vietnam
But perhaps it is even more rewarding to put in (just) a little work by scheduling a meditation session on the beach. Conducted by in-house wellness manager Alyona Lezhava, the session features a series of simple breathwork exercises to calm one’s “monkey mind”. It may have been the conscious breathing or maybe it was the gentle lull of the ocean waves and breeze, but for once, I was able to sit without fidgeting or getting bored.
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Maintaining this hard-earned mental equanimity when out and about exploring Da Nang is made possible by it being significantly smaller and less crowded than the capital Hanoi in the north and the metropolis of Ho Chi Minh City in the south. Lacking the somewhat terrifying stream of constant traffic that makes it close to impossible for newbies to cross roads in those cities, I am able to explore Da Nang on foot and at a leisurely pace.For an afternoon respite, check out the cavernous 43 Factory Coffee Roaster, an industrial-chic hang-out founded to spotlight the laborious process of coffee making. My fair-trade Colombian cuppa is brewed with almost meditative precision as my barista calibrates his pour on a weighing scale and I am instructed to enjoy the aromas and subtle flavours of the beans the way I would with a cup of tea. I never imagined it would feel calming to consume caffeine but as I take time to appreciate my drink, I notice how the mild buzz perks me up gently instead of causing a burst of frenetic energy.
Further afield, you can explore a slew of other activities, such as a leisurely cycle through the Unesco World Heritage-certified old town of Hoi An, or an invigorating hike among the Marble Mountains, five limestone peaks harbouring an atmospheric network of caves, tunnels and pagodas.
Wellness packages include 80 minutes of spa treatments per person per day. The reiki-trained therapists are whizzes at soothing tired bodies, making me wish I had more time allocated for even more pampering.
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In fact, in the spirit of seeking balance, why not trade the sundown tipple for an evening spa session and emerge feeling refreshed and ready for dinner? Citron, the property’s Vietnamese restaurant – there is also the Michelin-starred French restaurant La Maison 1888 and the more casual beachside Barefoot – serves up modern takes on local fare, with lighter flavours thanks to its sparing use of condiments. And while I love the punchy, robust flavours of Vietnamese street food, it is also a pleasure to let the natural taste of the fresh produce shine through.
On my final morning, I call for breakfast to be delivered to my pool villa so I can enjoy it at my leisure. I may have missed out on sampling all the treats at the enviable buffet spread one last time but I gained something more precious: a chance to exercise my new-found ability to enjoy the moment without trying to cram everything into my schedule. I only hope this lasts when I get back to my city lifestyle.
