To accommodate both the inconvenient need to know the time and the social conventions of the day, women often wore jewellery that hid tiny watch faces under a bejewelled cover so that they could check the time discreetly at social engagements without leaving anyone the wiser. While most often disguised as bracelets, some secret watches were also hidden in rings, clutches and long necklaces – whatever would remain seemly for a lady to fiddle with in an unobtrusive way. At the time, this meant that only the top watch and jewellery houses had the capabilities to create secret watches, as they had to be both tiny – technically complex for any mechanical watchmaker – and beautiful to behold.
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In the modern day, when glancing at a watch (or more likely, a phone) to tell the time is a natural action, secret watches still retain their allure. Why? It may be down to the appeal of having a secret while surrounded by others, an appreciation for the craftsmanship required to create them, or perhaps simply because they’re beautiful to look at. Realising this, maisons marry their know-how in jewellery setting and horology with eye-catching novelties.
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Graff is best known for its gorgeously elegant diamond jewellery creations, but its foray into watchmaking does not disappoint. Its Emerald and Diamond Secret Watch is a fan-shaped creation covered in custom-cut diamonds and emeralds. A petite kite-shaped dial is concealed under one of its large oval emeralds, which slides aside smoothly to reveal the time. “I spent many hours talking through the design before recreating it in CAD to ensure I knew precisely the vision for this secret watch,” comments Sam Sherry, head of technology at Graff. “By making microscopic adjustments on screen, I was able to ensure the comfort of each bracelet, that each diamond and emerald setting was as discreet as is technically possible, and the secret mechanism opens with exceptional smoothness.”
Transformation is at the core of Van Cleef & Arpels’ jewellery design philosophy, which is one of the reasons why it has continually created secret watches in various forms over the years. Its new Pompon Margaret long necklace is a particularly graceful iteration, with a double pendant configuration bearing a large cabochon-cut Sri Lankan sapphire pendant and a medallion of concentric sapphires and diamonds, both accompanied by a bejewelled tassel crafted from strings of cultured pearls and precious lapis lazuli beads. The watch dial is hidden under the concentric sapphires and diamonds, but the cleverest part of the necklace is that it can be transformed and worn in a multitude of ways, including as a jewellery watch with an all-pearl watch strap.
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“The point of a secret watch is that it must be seen first as a piece of jewellery, being a pendant or bracelet from the spectator’s perspective. Then as a watch, it must not be a gimmick but a real watch, easy for the wearer to read and handle,” says Nicolas Luchsinger, president of Asia-Pacific, Van Cleef & Arpels. “The biggest challenge is to achieve both. That is why, after our creative studio has designed the model, it is our development department’s job to take over and tackle all these challenges to achieve the excellence and perfection, which aligns with Van Cleef & Arpels’ standard.”
Bulgari has also long been known for its dramatic and glamorous creations, and its new Ruby Metamorphosis watch from its Magnifica collection is no exception. Crafted from platinum, the watch reportedly took 1,650 hours to create, and has a dial concealed under a gorgeous antique cushion-cut Mozambique ruby. The dial is surrounded by baguette-cut rubies and diamonds, with a supple bracelet that drapes softly over the wearer’s wrist.
Chanel’s high watchmakers launched the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton collection which includes the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton watch, inspired by the Chanel button, a motif constantly incorporated into the fashion universe by Mademoiselle Chanel herself.
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“The Mademoiselle Privé Bouton collection is the most intimate facet of Chanel’s high watchmaking. The most feminine too. But above all, the most secret,” says Arnaud Chastaingt, director of the Chanel Watchmaking Creation Studio. “A showcase for the house’s exceptional expertise, this collection is a hymn to creation, and for me, an incredible territory of expression. I’d dreamt of making the Chanel button into a timepiece. I have long been fascinated by this object.”
Materials collide in the magnificent Soreli secret watch from Cartier’s Magnitude collection. A large cabochon-cut rutilated quartz – chosen specifically for its honeyed tones and intense radiance – sits at the heart of the piece, flanked by kite-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds. But the watch face isn’t where you think it is. Instead of being concealed under the quartz cabochon, it is hidden under the panel of white diamonds just below. The cover opens halfway at the push of a button, and can be lifted up to reveal the whole dial – so that you can be as discreet about telling the time as necessary.
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“The design of secret watches themselves – with dials being hidden – also gives a sense of mystery that further entices collectors. The cover gives a petite surface for an artisan’s presentation of creativity and craftsmanship,” says Alexandre Bigler, head of watches at Christie’s Asia-Pacific.
On the investment front, secret watches always captivate the hearts of watch connoisseurs, according to Bigler: “Collectors worldwide have a stable appetite for secret watches – this type has great potential for increasing in value, given they are exceptionally rare at auction.”
