Crab lovers have known about Riggins Crabhouse for 20 years. That’s how long this Maryland-style crab house has been pleasing customers with its blue crab specialties and indisputable charm. Once inside, you’ll think you’re sitting somewhere on the Chesapeake Bay instead of just off traffic-roaring Interstate 95 in the sunny tropics.
Head for the nautically inspired back dining room (the front one leans to ultra-casual) for the cozy effects of lace-covered curtains and lively boothside aquariums. And don’t be surprised at the white butcher paper table coverings or the plump rolls of paper towels that provide the highly practical table decor.
Blue crab reigns supreme here, and Riggins has mastered its preparation in every category. On the chance you’re clawstrophobic, the menu provides a few options: A New York strip ($13.95), boneless chicken breast ($8.95), or a cheeseburger ($5.95). Live steamed or broiled lobsters make menu appearances at market pricing, as do other options for seafood explorers who like assorted preparations of shrimp, king crab and snow crab legs, seasonal stone crabs, plump frog legs and fresh fish sandwiches.
Try starting with one of the large Baltimore crab cakes ($7.95), pan sauteed until the exterior is firm but not crispy. Break into the 3-inch-wide patty that seems held together on rich qualities alone, and the tines of your fork will meet little other than the sweet white meat of this delicious crustacean. (The dinner portion, $15.95, brings two cakes boasting half a pound of fresh blue crab meat.) Other successful openers include excellent sauteed softshell crabs loaded with fresh garlic at market price, ($8.95 on our visit); battered and deep fried not-too-chewy gator bites ($7.95) and chilled peel-and-eat spiced shrimp cooked in beer ($4.95 for six good-sized ones served on ice.)
Bahamian Conch Chowder ($2 per cup, $4 per bowl), with an intense background of flavors but not a lot of conch, is more noteworthy than Maryland Crab Soup at the same price. Each has a similarly flavored tomato base, but the frozen vegetable components disappoint. The crab version comes complete with a protruding crab claw, the conch chowder is accompanied by a bottle of Spanish sherry. We had to ask twice before it finally made it to our table — and by that time the soup was less than hot. Neither held the spiciness the menu promised.
If you opt for the all-you-can-eat garlic crabs ($16.95), wear jeans and move those paper towels closer. The menu says they’re not always available, but when they are, it would be a shame to miss their messy but perfect crack-open garlicky goodness. Other blue crab specials, made with whole male crabs, include Maryland-style crabs quick-steamed with Old Bay seasoning at market pricing.
Climb aboard the Riggins Sea Raft ($14.95) and do a double take at the portion size that should happily float you into seafood oblivion. This chin-high heaping plateful is rugged and satisfying. Most of it is breaded and crisply deep fried, but it’s all handled well. In Noah’s Ark fashion, you’ll get two of everything — two whole cornmeal-dusted catfish, two large shrimp, two oysters, two huge filets of cod, a mound of extra tender clam strips, more french fries than you could possibly eat and two whole large steamed garlic crabs. While the breading could have been lighter on the oysters, the cooking techniques on this immoderate feast were right on target. If you can manage it, there’s a small cup of decent freshly made coleslaw to cap it all off.
Of course not all the food here is fried, as in the fresh catch that can be broiled, blackened or grilled. A filet of dolphin at market price ($14.95 on our visit) couldn’t be faulted for quality or freshness, only for its prolonged exposure under the broiler. Partnering dinner options include good parsleyed red bliss potatoes touched with butter, corn on the cob, fries or linguine with garlic and oil or marinara sauce.
In Florida one expects nothing less than a slice of praiseworthy Key lime pie ($3.25), and that’s exactly what Riggins provides. While management has elected not to make desserts on premises, they’ve obviously researched commercial products and come up with excellent results. That pie is perfectly puckery, more fluffy than densely textured, with a thin graham cracker crust that’s delightfully crisp and fresh. A layer of smooth chocolate highlights a slice of chocolate chip cheesecake ($3.75) that’s creamy, good and rich with cream cheese.
G.B. Kirkland is a pseudonym to protect our dining critic’s anonymity. Please phone in advance to confirm information on hours, prices, menu items and facilities.
