Ratafia. The opaque elixir has the questionable, slightly brownish hue of oxidized dessert wine. Pour a splash into a glass and you release an inviting citrus aroma. We take sips. Tart orange and clove flavors infuse the earthy warmth of brandy in a drink dancing with fresh fruit.
In Southwest France, ratafia is a fruit- and spice-infused brandy made at home. Transplanting ratafia to his Los Angeles kitchen, Lou Amdur, owner of the wine bar Lou on Vine, marries rustic French traditions with bountiful supplies of backyard citrus.
Make it with oranges, kumquats, tangerines or blood oranges. No matter which you use, you will need 3 cups juice and 2 cups zest. A 750-milliliter bottle of Armagnac yields 3 1/4 cups. To make the Simple Syrup, dissolve 1 cup sugar in 1 cup water in a small saucepan over medium heat; allow to cool.
Here’s the Ratafia recipe using tangerines: Rinse 18 tangerines and separate the peels from the fruit, reserving the peels. Squeeze 3 cups tangerine juice from the tangerines. Remove the white pith from the zest of about 12 tangerines. Cut the zest into strips until you have 2 cups.
Combine 3 1/4 cups Armagnac, the juice, zest and 1 cup simple syrup in a large resealable jar.
Toast one whole clove slightly in a pan over medium heat, just until fragrant, and add it to the Armagnac mixture. Crush 1 cardamom pod with a mortar and pestle and add it to the mixture. Seal the jar, shake it and store it in a dark place 2 months, shaking every day or so. After 2 months, strain the zest and spices from the liquid and discard.
Let the remaining solids collect on the bottom. Pour off the liquid and discard the solids. Refrigerate to preserve the acidity. Makes about 7 1/4 cups.
