There’s classic, and then there’s red lipstick. Simple, bold and timeless, red lips just never go out of style. That’s why some consider them the jeans of make-up: they are a multifaceted, versatile tool that can serve as the foundation for any look, as long as you find the right fit.
Red lipstick dates farther back than most people imagine, possibly as long as 5,000 years. A touch of rouge has served as a symbol of many things throughout that history: from a high-status stamp for the elite in ancient Egypt to a sign of glamour and seduction in the early days of Hollywood. The result is a sort of aesthetic weapon loaded with culture, history and elegance. As Audrey Hepburn once said, “There’s a shade of red for every woman,” and a simple swipe of it on your lips can be a game changer.
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At the spring/summer 2023 haute couture shows in January, the Chanel runway saw almost barefaced models sporting bright, glossy red lips that worked as the ideal accessory to a straightforward and rather youthful collection, while designer Antonio Grimaldi paired a fierce spring red-pink hue with his bold yet sophisticated gowns. But what’s the recipe to achieve that perfect pout?1. Preparing for success
First things first, choose a shade to match your complexion. Safe bets that pair well with most skin tones are rich deep-pink reds, cherry-based tones and colder reds in general.
When talking about technique, every make-up artist will probably approach a red lip differently, but most agree it all starts with proper lip prep. A gentle scrub followed by a nourishing lip balm will help eliminate flakes and dead skin cells, and plump your lips to create a polished, hydrated canvas.
2. Layers and outlines
Next, it’s important to neutralise your natural lip shade by adding a nude base, which you can accomplish by extending your foundation across the lip line. Make sure not to overdo it, though; you don’t need to cover your lips entirely with a thick layer of foundation, but instead, just extend what’s left on the sponge or applicator you’re already using. This will help the red hue pop and give the lipstick something to hold on to in order to stay put throughout the day.
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Once your canvas is set, it’s time to work on the outlines. While a red lip used to be a synonym for sharp, hyper-defined edges, nowadays there are multiple ways to approach those lines based on your personal taste.
“In the past, a red lip was envisioned as a perfectly lined, sharp-edged look, but in this day and age, blurred margins can also be a part of the mix,” says Los Angeles-based celebrity make-up artist Carolina Pizarro. “Embracing the blurriness can help dim down the boldness of the look if you feel like a whetted edge is too much for you. Plus, it can make things easier as reapplying during the day becomes a simpler task involving fewer tools and steps,” she remarks.
If your goal is the classic, sharp-edged look, a lip liner will help define your lips’ shape and prevent lipstick from bleeding into little lines around your mouth. Before starting, ensure your pencil’s tip is sharp, as round tips make things harder. Begin by outlining the middle of the bottom lip before moving over to the cupid’s bow and outline until the arches are symmetrical. Next draw in the sides for both lips, before connecting up all the lines.
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3. Tips on tips
When applying lipstick, use the bullet or a flat brush with a slightly curved tip for more control. The latter is ideal for gradually building colour, working in layers and avoiding mistakes, which is why most make-up artists recommend it. However, learning how to use the angles on your lipstick bullet to apply and reapply colour can come in handy.
“A lipstick bullet is designed to help you reach all the arches and tips on your lips, so learning how to take advantage of those angles correctly can be super convenient, especially when on the go,” Pizarro explains.
Finally, clear any excess product by using a tissue to blot your lips gently. Once that’s done, apply a second layer of colour, and you’re ready to go red.
