A narrow gravel driveway with a pair of hairpin turns wends its way upward to Victorian splendor just a quarter mile from the famed Vanderbilt estate in Asheville, N.C.

From a distance, this three-story yellow frame fantasy has the look of a fabulous private hillside residence. Closer inspection, however, reveals that the ornate, beveled glass doors swing wide for anyone with a reservation — as well as for the occasional drop-in who does not.

This is Cedar Crest, a circa 1894 vision belonging to Barbara and Jack McEwan. Since July 1984, they’ve pampered streams of guests in a setting of steep, elaborately carved mahogany staircases, beds dressed in lace-trimmed linens, afternoon tea and elegant breakfasts served downstairs in the tea room or out on the veranda.

New Englanders caught on to this concept years ago, no doubt inspired by resourceful Europeans. But now bed and breakfasts are sweeping the South, and nowhere can travelers find a more eclectic roundup of charming shelters than in the hospitable Carolinas.

Of course, much of this ambiance has come at an entrepreneurial price.

“We call it our Book of Tears,” jokes Jack McEwan, referring to a photo album in Cedar Crest’s ground-floor drawing room. Pictures within show the McEwans up to their necks in wallpaper paste, paint stripper, plumbing tools and repair bills as they struggle to restore the Queen Anne-style property before opening-day guests arrive.

The effort, however, has undoubtedly paid off — some of their guests having become regulars.

For adventurers seeking alternatives to high-priced and/or lookalike chain accommodations, B&Bs; in the Carolinas are well worth a try. The personal warmth of a top-flight bed and breakfast can more than make up for lack of standard hotel amenities or the occasional bathroom down the hall.

Here’s a sampling of what’s available:

— Applewood Manor, 62 Cumberland Circle, Asheville, N.C.; 1-704-254-2244. Fireplaces, afternoon tea and courtesy bicycles are part of the ambiance at this home, which offers four rooms with private baths in the Historic Montford District. Hosts: Jim and Linda Lo Presti. Rates: $65 per night, double occupancy.

— Blake House Inn, 150 Royal Pines Dr., Arden, N.C.; 1-704-684-1847. This home, which served as a Civil War field hospital, is a fine example of Gothic architecture and is only 15 minutes from the Biltmore estate. Hosts: Jack and Jan Bass. Rates: $55 to $65, double occupancy.

— Cedar Crest, 674 Biltmore Ave., Asheville, N.C.; 1-704-252-1389. This Queen Anne-style mansion has 10 guest rooms with either private or semi- private baths, all furnished in period antiques. Afternoon tea and evening hot chocolate served in the parlor. Hosts: Barbara and Jack McEwan. Rates: $83 to $90 per night, double occupancy.

— Dry Ridge Inn, 26 Brown St., Weaverville, N.C.; 1-704-658-3899. Five large guest rooms each with private baths are available in this 100-year-old farmhouse about a 10-minute drive north of Asheville. Full country breakfasts are served by hosts John and Karen Vander Elzen. Rates: $45 per night, double occupancy.

— Esmeralda Inn, P.O. Box 57, Chimney Rock, N.C.; 1-704-625-9105. This rustic hideaway, in business since 1890, has counted Clark Gable, Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford among its guests. There are 12 rooms, six with private bath. Hosts: Pete and Pam Smith. Rates: $30 to $50, double occupancy.

— Greenfield B&B;, Newfound Road, Box 206A, Leicester, N.C. 28748; 1-704-683-2128. This hilltop Southern country estate has four rooms, with nearby pond, walking paths and panoramic mountain views. Breakfast is served on the deck or near a fireplace. Hosts: Mahlon and Janet Green. Rates: $40 to $45 per night, double occupancy.

— The Greystone Inn, P.O. Box 6, Lake Toxaway, N.C.; 1-704-966-4700. Formerly the Moltz Mansion, this circa 1915 inn recently has been expanded to 32 guest rooms, with fireplaces in many. In addition to bed and breakfast, rates include a seven-course dinner, soft drinks, tennis, swimming, water- skiing, wind surfing, canoeing, fishing, hiking and sunset cruises. Host: Brian Peterkin. Rates: $75 to $175 per person, per night.

— Pisgah Inn, P.O. Box 749, Waynesville, N.C. 28786; 1-704-235-8228. At an elevation of 5,000 feet, this inn is one of only three lodges on the Blue Ridge Parkway. Hosts: Bruce and Phyllis O’Connell. Rates: $45 to $95, double occupancy.

— Ragged Garden Inn, Sunset Drive, Blowing Rock, N.C.; 1-704-295-9703. This grandiose old home sits amid roses, rhododendrons and majestic trees. Seven guests rooms, each with private bath. Hosts: Joe and Joyce Villani. Rates: $40 to $85, double occupancy.

— Randolph House Country Inn, Fryemont Road, Bryson City, N.C.; 1-704-488-3472. Country estate lodging in a grand mansion built in 1895, with original furnishings. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places: Hosts: Ruth and Randolph Adams. Rates: $50 to $60 per person, per night.

— The Ray House, 83 Hillside St., Asheville, N.C.; 1-704-252-0106. This Colonial Revival-style home commanding a view of downtown Asheville has four rooms with fireplaces, two with private baths. Hosts: Alice and Will Curtis. Rates: $42 to $52 per night, double occupancy.

— The Red Rocker Inn, 136 N. Dougherty St., Black Mountain, N.C. 28711; 1-704-669-5991. A country atmosphere prevails here, with rooms named “The Preacher’s” or “Uncle Leroy’s.” Hosts: Pat and Fred Eshleman. Rates: $40 to $55 per night, double occupancy. Special rate of $35 per person per day Sept. 1 through 30.

— The Old Reynolds Mansion, 100 Reynolds Heights, Asheville, N.C.; 1-704-254-0496. This 1855 three-story antebellum brick mansion has nine guest rooms and a huge swimming pool. Listed on the National Registry of Historic Places. Hostess: Helen Faber. Rates: $40 to $65, double occupancy.

— The Woodfield Inn, Box 98, Flatrock, N.C., 28731; 1-704-693-6016. Many of these 18 authentic Victorian bedrooms offer private baths, fireplaces and French doors leading to sweeping verandas. Fresh-baked breads and pastries are breakfast specialties. Hostess: Jean Smith. Open to the public for lunch and dinner. Rates: $45 to $90 per night, double occupancy.